Madeira is the Atlantic island that feels like Hawaii crossed with the Azores — volcanic peaks, levada walks through laurel forest, and a capital that blends Portuguese charm with subtropical gardens. This four-day plan covers the highlights without a rental car (buses + bolt/uber work), priced for two people with honest trade-offs.
Day 1 — Funchal, the garden capital
Arrive at Funchal airport (aerobus 5 euro, 20 min to centre). Check into an apartment in São Martinho or Santo António (60–80 euro/night, kitchen). Afternoon: walk the promenade to **Mercado dos Lavradores** (passion fruit, espada fish, bolo do caco). Cable car to **Monte** (11 euro return) — visit the church, then **toboggan ride** (15 euro, 2 km wicker sled down cobblestones). Dinner at **Taberna da Esquina** (espada com banana, 18 euro pp). The city is walkable; every miradouro is a 15-minute climb.
