Albania is the Balkan destination that still feels undiscovered — Ottoman towns, UNESCO sites, a riviera that rivals Greece at a third of the price, and mountain hospitality that refuses to let you pay for coffee. This five-day loop covers the essentials with public transport, priced for two people.
Day 1 — Tirana, the colourful capital
Arrive at Tirana airport (bus Rinas Express, 300 ALL, 30 min). Check into an apartment in Blloku or near Skanderbeg Square (40–60 euro/night, kitchen). Afternoon: walk the centre — Skanderbeg Square, Et’hem Bey Mosque (free), National History Museum (500 ALL), Pyramid of Tirana (exterior). Dinner at **Mullixhiu** (modern Albanian, 20 euro pp) or **Oda** (traditional, 15 euro pp). Evening: Blloku bars (Radio Bar, Hemingway) — the nightlife is unexpectedly vibrant.
Day 2 — Berat, the city of a thousand windows
Bus Tirana → Berat (2 hours, 400 ALL). Check into a guesthouse in Mangalem or Gorica quarter (30–45 euro/night). Berat is a UNESCO site — white Ottoman houses climb the hill to the castle. Visit **Berat Castle** (free, still inhabited), **Onufri Museum** (500 ALL, 16th-century icons), **Ethnographic Museum** (300 ALL). Lunch at **Antigoni** (home-cooked, 12 euro pp). Sunset from the Gorica bridge. Dinner at **Mangalemi** (lamb tave, 15 euro pp).
Day 3 — Gjirokastër, the stone city
Bus Berat → Gjirokastër (2.5 hours, 500 ALL). Another UNESCO site — slate-roofed houses, cobbled streets, a castle that dominates the Drino valley. Check into a guesthouse in the old town (35–50 euro/night). Visit **Gjirokastër Castle** (200 ALL, includes arms museum), **Skenduli House** (300 ALL, Ottoman mansion), **Ethnographic Museum** (200 ALL, Enver Hoxha’s birthplace). Lunch at **Kodra** (qifqi rice balls, 10 euro). Dinner at **Taverna Kujtimi** (pasha qofte, 15 euro pp).
Day 4 — Albanian Riviera: Himarë or Dhërmi
Bus Gjirokastër → Sarandë (1.5 hours, 400 ALL), then local bus to **Himarë** (45 min, 200 ALL) or **Dhërmi** (1 hour, 200 ALL). Check into a beachfront guesthouse (40–60 euro/night). Himarë: Livadhi beach (pebble, clear water), castle hike. Dhërmi: Drymades beach, monastery hike. Lunch at a beach taverna (grilled fish, 18 euro pp). Afternoon: swim, sunset aperitivo. Dinner at guesthouse (home-cooked seafood, 20 euro pp).
Day 5 — Sarandë, Butrint, and return
Bus to **Butrint National Park** (30 min, 1000 ALL entry + bus) — UNESCO, Greek/Roman/Venetian ruins, lake setting, 2-hour walk. Return to Sarandë, bus to Tirana (4.5 hours, 1000 ALL) or fly from Corfu (ferry Sarandë → Corfu 30 min, 19 euro, flight often cheaper). Airport bus 300 ALL.
Cost summary, per person
- Accommodation (4 nights): 140–200 euro
- Transport (buses, ferries): 40–50 euro
- Activities (entries, museums): 25–30 euro
- Food (guesthouse meals + 3 restaurants): 100–130 euro
Total: about 305–410 euro per person for 5 days — one of Europe’s last true hidden gems.
One-line verdict
Tirana for buzz, Berat for windows, Gjirokastër for stone, Riviera for sea — Albania in 5 days by bus, $305–410 pp.